Cape Disappointment and the Corp of Discovery
I’ve been coming out to Cape Disappointment for as long as I’ve lived here in the Pacific Northwest which is over thirty years now. It wasn’t until my most recent visit that it sort of hit me just how much history this one dot on the map actually hosts. Capt. Robert Gray, Capt. Cook, Capt. Vancouver and John Jacob Astor are just some of the historical figures that have links to this area.
But probably the most significant, or at least recognizable, is the 1805 visit by the Corp of Discovery. They had already been on the trail for a year and a half but reaching their objective, the Pacific Ocean, was no easier even if they were only a stone’s throw away.
Landing at the highest spot they could find on the northern (Washington) side of the Columbia River estuary, they established what they called “Station Camp.” The site is commemorated by Lewis and Clark Campsite State Park, a tiny roadside attraction two miles southeast of what is now the town of Chinook, on U.S. Route 101. The location of the actual campsite is a matter of conjecture since the shoreline has shifted by several hundred feet since Lewis and Clark passed through.
The Corps spent 10 days at Station Camp — their longest encampment in what is now Washington state — exploring, hunting, and visiting with the Chinook and Clatsop Indians who came to inspect and trade with the newcomers.
At the cape, one of the men killed a “remarkably large buzzard” that had been feeding on the remains of a whale. This was a California Condor (Gymnogyps californianus), a carrion bird with a wingspan of more than nine feet (compared to five feet for the bald eagle). Condors, now an endangered species, were common on the shores of the Columbia until the mid-nineteenth century. The Port of Ilwaco commemorates the event with a life-size sculpture of the California Condor.
Cape Disappointment State Park also has a very informative Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center that is a must-see if you’re in the area. The center stands high on a 200’ cliff above the pounding Pacific surf. A series of mural-sized timeline panels guide visitors through the westward journey of using sketches, paintings, photographs, and the words of Corps members themselves.
Support
Our mission is a labor of love, but it does come with overhead. If you’d like to support our efforts we’d certainly appreciate it. Currently, we’re actively participating in the following field research:
- COASST Beached Bird Surveys
- Wild and Scenic River Project
Thank you.
Columbia River and the United States Exploring Expedition
Far less known to today’s public but no less significant with the United States Exploring Expedition and it’s scandalous leader Capt. Charles Wilkes.
The expedition was shaped by both commercial and scientific concerns and a desire to expand American influence and interests in the Pacific Northwest. Secretary of the Navy James Paulding wanted “to extend the bounds of science, and promote the acquisition of knowledge.”
However, it can be argued that concerns in Congress about British hegemony in the Pacific Northwest helped to shape what historian Philip Lundeberg called “the Expedition’s most significant geopolitical undertaking, a comprehensive survey of the Oregon territory, extending from the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the Columbia River valley.” This show of force was to let all know that the US intended to claim and settle the Pacific Northwest.
On April 28, 1841, Wilkes arrived off the Columbia River bar but was unable to cross because of hazardous conditions. He proceeded to Puget Sound and Fort Nisqually. His negative impression of the accessibility of the river to a possible port (“Mere description can give little idea of the terrors of the bar of the Columbia”) was reinforced by the later loss of the USS Peacock on the bar on July 18, 1841.
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A forgotten sailboat, once at home on the open seas, now rests as a forgotten relic in the parking lot near Damon Point, standing as a haunting reminder of forgotten dreams and the relentless power of time.
The golden hues of the sunset cascade through the dense trees of the Pacific Northwest forest. It's a sight that never gets old, a reminder of the beauty that can be found in even the simplest things.
Walking through the forest near our campground on the Strait of Juan de Fuca. It’s almost hypnotic listening to the breeze in the canopy and the waves on the shore.
As the sun ascends, an explosive burst of vibrant hues paints the sky over Damon Point, illuminating the world with a kaleidoscope of colors and reminding us of the breathtaking beauty that awaits those who embrace each new day. Read more about our adventure; the link is in the bio.
Theresa is leading the way to Pebble Beach. A local in the area had shared that this was once an Indian summer camp and that you could still find arrowheads and pottery.
Camping with Jason who found us a great spot on the Columbia River. It’s unbelievable how close the shipping channel comes to our sites.
Come explore the stunning beauty of Tokeland with us! 📸 Click the link in our profile to see what Theresa captured and to join in on the conversation about conservation.
Exploring the Coastal Charm of Tokeland - Essex Media & Explorations
From above, the waves on Long Beach Peninsula look like a canvas of abstract art, each one unique and captivating in its own way. It's like watching a symphony of nature in motion - powerful, graceful, and utterly mesmerizing. 🌊✨
I recently witnessed a breathtaking sunset on the Pacific Coast. The hues of orange, and pink painted the sky and reflected off the calm water. It was a truly unforgettable moment.
Theresa's enjoying a moment of peace in Long Beach - just look at that sunset! All of us can help preserve these beautiful places for people to enjoy for years to come. Share your favorite conservation memory in the comments below!
We recently camped at Lake Sylvia State Park and were fortunate enough to have a break in the weather. Just as we were rounding the lake's northern end, there was a break in the clouds revealing a golden sky.
I'd love for you to check my lastest article which includes a short video of my visit to one of Washington's fire lookouts. https://buff.ly/409XOYR
Just published an article over on the website which also has a short clip of my trip to find the Burley Mountain Fire Lookout. Find the link in the bio.
Fluffy cotton candy clouds adorn the serene skies and tranquil waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We had to wait a bit for the tide to recede before we could start our #COASST bird survey.
We took shelter under an underhand to wait out a squall while conducting our #COASST bird survey on Murdock Beach. Theresa took advantage to do a bit of Agate hunting while the storm blew over head.
The list of accomplishments of the expedition while in this area is long and impressive but perhaps it has taken a back seat in the history books due to the scandal revolving around Capt. Wilkes and his leadership. Accusations by Wilkes of incompetence and contempt against several junior officers led to countercharges against Wilkes. A court-martial resulted in a reprimand of Wilkes on a charge of illegal punishment.
As we road portions of the Discovery Corp trail on our Rad Power Bikes, reading commemorative signs posted along the way, the historian in me reeled trying to grasp that such a small area could have so much history. Ghosts are everywhere.
Further Reading
There are a couple of books I can recommend for anyone who would like to dive deeper in these two historical expeditions; Sea of Glory: America’s Voyage of Discovery, The U.S. Exploring Expedition, 1838-1842 by Nathaniel Philbrick and Undaunted Courage: Meriwether Lewis, Thomas Jefferson and the Opening of the American West: Meriwether Lewis Thomas Jefferson and the Opening by Stephen Ambrose. Both are excellent reads.
